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Lesley McHardy, former BRAVO! Sommelier, discusses the growing popularity of Wine Tastings

A spirited pastime Popularity of wine tastings on the rise

Published in the Clarion-Ledger Newspaper, April 23, 2008, written by LaReeca Rucker

Leslie McHardy worked as a bartender at Bayona, a well-known New Orleans restaurant in the heart of the French Quarter, before moving to Jackson.

When Bravo! Italian Restaurant & Bar opened in Highland Village in 1994, she became the bartender and, three years later, she took over the restaurant's wine program as the sommelier.

"It translates to 'wine steward,' " said McHardy, who became a certified sommelier in 1999 and now owns Briarwood Mart Wines & Spirits on Old Canton Road in Jackson with her husband, Nathan, another certified wine expert.

Together, the two help customers appropriately pair reds and whites with dinner party dishes and suggest wines for tasting events that have become increasingly popular in the Jackson metro area since Bravo introduced the idea as a regular feature.

"When Bravo first opened, we were the only game in town," said McHardy, speaking of the growing popularity of wine tastings. "There were private wine tastings, but that's about it. Now, as a community and a nation, we are becoming more wine savvy."

That was evident last weekend when the Highland Village courtyard welcomed the Sante South Wine Festival, an annual event benefiting the Mississippi chapter of the Alzheimer's Association. Chere Stegall, the association's director of special events, estimates some 800 wine enthusiasts attended. About $70,000 was raised for charity.

"We're hoping one day it will be one of the biggest events in the Southeast," said Stegall.

McHardy said learning about wine requires an adventurous spirit.

"I could tell you that some chardonnays are oaky, creamy and buttery, but until you taste them, you won't really understand," she said. "Just like in the world of relationships, you have to kiss a lot of frogs. That's why Baskin-Robbins makes 31 flavors, because everyone likes something different."

McHardy said some people are intimidated by wine, but you shouldn't let fear hold you back. And you don't have to spend a lot of money to buy a good wine.

"We sell more wine in the $10 to $15 range than we do the big boys," she said. "A lot of times, I've found that people having a party are really concerned about what their guests will think. Sometimes, I'll choose a wine that is a low price and a really high quality, and they'll ask if their guests are going to think it's cheap wine.

"I don't know what your guests will think, but I know wine. It's all about having confidence. And to me, if it's cheap and good, that's a win-win. Cheap's not bad as long as the wine is high quality."

Kathy McDade, owner of McDade's Wine & Spirits in Jackson's Maywood Mart Shopping Center, said she's seen a shift from beer and bourbon to wine.

"I think everyone is being exposed to wine more," she said. "The people right out of college, we call them the millenials, are beer and wine drinkers. People are drinking more wines, and it's not necessarily for a special occasion; it may be with spaghetti or hamburgers."

Another trend is the rise in organic wines. As Mississippians "go green," McDade said storeowners are receiving more organic wine requests. There are only a few organics on the market to choose from, however, like the red and white wines the store carries from California's Bonterra Vineyards.

"At a winery, everything has to be a certain way before they can say it is organic," she said. "I think it's something that's just starting to trend that way, because wineries can't react as fast as food product companies. I think you'll see it evolve over the next few years."

Seven years ago, David Rushing came to help a friend construct Joe T's Wines & Spirits in Ridgeland and never left. Today, he works as the general manager.

"In the beginning, I didn't have any interest in wine, and I didn't think I liked it," he said. "I am living proof that you can acquire a taste for it. There is a process."

To comment on this story, call LaReeca Rucker at (601) 961-7034.

Oh, What a Wine Night/Flight - Guest Posting by FARLEY WALKER formerly of BRAVO!, now of Thomas Fogarty Winery

Editor's Note:

Farley Walker works at Thomas Fogarty Winery, mostly in the tasting room. She also assists with various other projects, especially writing. She credits Bonny Doon, though, for the decision to enter the wine business. While in graduate school for creative writing, she was struck by the clever labels for the Big House Red and other such wines and thought, "Hey, I can do that!"

Many of our regulars will remember Farley from the years she waited tables and bartended at BRAVO!.  Dan and Jeff are proud of the fact that Farley's interest in wine was sparked at BRAVO!, and we are thankful for the roll that Lesley McHardy played in helping bring Farley along.

Here is a posting from Farley's personal wine blog concerning a trip to BRAVO! when she came home to Jackson over the Christmas Holidays.  (you can see more of Farley's work at http://www.wineoutlook.com.   Thank you for your kind words regarding your old stomping grounds, Farley!  We miss you!

I just pulled tasting notes from dinner a few nights ago out of my purse. A little worse for wear, with water stains, drops of wine, and what looks to be a bit of sauce, at least they’re readable. The whole experience was one of the best I’ve had all year, winewise and otherwise, so I thought I’d share the reviews and assessment.

The sommelier and I met up at BRAVO!, where she works and I once did, for dinner with two other friends. After much discussion (i.e. pouring over the 400-bottle wine list), we decided to begin with the 1994 Domaine Zind Humbrecht ‘clos hauserer’ Riesling from Alsace. It was one of those situations that makes the search worthwhile. You read about older Rieslings giving off the aroma of petrol, but until you have the chance to drink one, you’re not really sure how it works. As soon as I put my nose in the glass, there it was—a lightbulb went off. On the palate were spritzy flowers, slightly sweet in the middle, and crisp on the finish. Fantastic pairing with the rosemary-infused mushrooms over crispy polenta.

The second bottle was interesting, but not nearly as fulfilling as the first; it was the 1997 Clarendon Hills ‘Liandra’ Shriaz. The nose was incredible—pizza sauce immediately jumped into my head—tomatoes and oregano. The taste took longer to come around, and when it finally did, it spoke of chocolate, olives, acidity, and smoke. As more time went by, it got smoother and the nose gave off hints of a dirty martini to match the olives on the palate. While the wine alone was not something I’d dish out such cash for again, it was quite perfect with my pork chop topped with a double mustard cream sauce. It’s the kind of sauce that’s so good, you’d look for something, anything to dip in it so as not to waste any.

When the Shiraz started to get low, we ordered the 2004 Garretson Cornbread Nation Cuvée. The least expensive of all the bottles that night (and not even officially on the list yet), it was quite a treat, especially for the price. Maybe it was the power of suggestion, but it literally was like the South in a bottle…the nose reminded us of cornbread, how a black iron skillet smells with butter melting in the oven and then when the batter is poured in and starts to sizzle. There were also hints of strawberry, molasses, and vanilla. Yum.

The last bottle I’ll mention, which was not necessarily the last one we had, was the 2003 Louis Guntrum Eiswein. I had to have it because A) Eiswien is not super easy to find and B) it had penguins on the label. While I was too full at that point to take notes on the wine, it did go amazingly well with the crème brulee topped with bananas. Other than that, it was not as rich as you’d expect an Eiswein to be and probably not quite worth the price.

Overall, the evening was an mind-blowing succession of good food and good wine, made all the better by the perfection of the pairings, and of course, the company of good friends.

Try the BRAVO! To Go Window!

Just because you're on the go doesn't mean you have to settle for dull, greasy fast food.

When you don't have time to linger over dinner, you can still treat yourself to the delicious cuisine at BRAVO! Our to-go pickup window makes it easier than ever to enjoy your favorite BRAVO! dishes ... even when you're on the run.

Minutes after you call in your order, we'll have it boxed and waiting. Because the To Go Window conveniently opens onto the terrace outside the restaurant, you can pick up your meal and be back in the car as quickly as possible. No lines ... no waiting!

Chocolate Flourless Torte

Ah, the perfection of the BRAVO! chocolate flourless torte!

As desserts go, the chocolate flourless torte is a model of understated elegance. If your idea of a perfect restaurant dessert is a four-pound slab of dry cake slathered with canned frosting, this is not the dessert for you. If you're looking for a mile-high slab of gaudy ice-cream cake, there are dozens of chain stores in Jackson that can oblige.

But the BRAVO! chocolate flourless torte is in a class by itself: a generous wedge of velvety chocolate -- decadent, but never overstated. Accent each bite with a touch of tart raspberry drizzle and finish with a sip of coffee. It's pure chocolate heaven … the perfect ending to any BRAVO! dinner experience.

TIP: Driving around town, looking for a great dessert? Why not stop in at the BRAVO! To Go window and grab a chocolate flourless torte for the road?

Make Mine a Milk Punch

Our friend Aurbrey's only claim to fame is his flamboyant mother, Myrtle.

Myrtle was living in Hawaii during the attack on Pearl Harbor. Until very recently, Myrtle thought nothing of driving across country, alone, on a whim. Myrtle's polite, but she doesn't mince words.

Not too long ago, Myrtle grabbed her best girlfriend, Cara Jean, and dropped in on the bar at the local country club. When the bartender asked Myrtle what she'd have, Myrtle replied, "We'll have a milk punch."